Textiles and Stuff 

This is a delightful example of a lady’s cap in cotton machine lace, pearls and peach coloured velvet ribbon. These caps were worn mainly in the 1870s and then went out of fashion fairly quickly and so are rarely seen these days. There is a basic frame of wire which supports the lace, with lavish decoration with artificial pearls which are blown glass, rather than solid. There are three loops of peach velvet ribbon at the front. It was worn on the top of the head and fixed to the coiffure with elastic or pins. The only restoration has been the replacement of the millinery wire which was broken and rusty.

This is a very elegant Victorian opera cloak from the 1890s made of a fine wool fabric in dove grey, and trimmed with a border of sheared feathers and a handmade couched decoration of silver braid and beading. The shoulders are slightly gathered. It is full length with a generous train at the back which falls in pleats from the edge of the V shaped yoke. The yoke is also trimmed with braid and bead work and there are five long tassels which hang down from it. It is lined with golden yellow silk. There is a tiny pocket inside the front edge, which can been in the last photograph. The measurement across the shoulders is approximately 17 inches (43 cms.) and the front length from top of the shoulder to the hem is 56 inches (142 cms.). The condition of the cloak is very good, but there are a few small moth holes in the wool and the lining has failed in some places. This has been repaired so that the garment can be worn, but this work can easily be removed if the garment is required in its original condition. The overall appearance is excellent considering its age and it is a very elegant and flattering garment.

This is a beautifully embroidered bonnet from Czechoslovakia, probably a wedding bonnet, made of linen and embroidered all over in brightly coloured wool and silk threads. The motifs are the traditional flowers and leaves in shades of predominantly reds, orange and pink, with outlines in dark green, black and brown. The colours are clear and bright. The bonnet is lined with cotton. The brim is trimmed with bobbin lace and round the neck edge is a row of loose buttonhole stitch, probably for a draw string. The bonnet shows some signs of wear and there are a couple of very small areas with moth damage, but this is a good example of traditional costume from Eastern Europe and would be a welcome addition to any collection.

An early 20th Century evening dress in cream ikat silk with an all over design of black spheres, by Marshall and Snelgrove, Stockport. It has a scooped neckline which is trimmed with green ribbon with a bow, and this trim is echoed on the main part of the dress, bordering the pleated frills. The sleeves are pleated and in layers. There is an added apron at the waist and the back of the dress has a long fishtail lined in grey silk. There are no side openings and the garment slips on over the head. The only damage to the garment is some weakness and slits in the fabric in the underarm area and a small hole on the front of the bodice which has been repaired. These are not very noticeable when the dress is displayed and do not detract from its appearance. However I feel this stunning garment is one for display rather than wear owing to its age and fragility in some areas. This is a most unusual design from a very well known store.

This is a dress from the very late 19th Century, the Pre-Raphaelite or Arts and Crafts period, in a mediaeval style. It is made of a ribbed terra cotta silk and the front panel is of a much paler pink lightweight silk. It is possible in view of the design of this front panel that this might be a maternity dress. The inner dress is boned and fastens with buttons down the centre front and this is concealed under the free flowing front panel which fastens at the shoulder and down the sleeve line with hooks and eyes. The sleeves are in the gigot or “leg of mutton” style just coming into fashion at this time with very fully gathered tops and tightly fitting lower sections fastening with three fabric covered buttons and loops. The back of the dress is close fitting in the bodice area and has a train which fits into the curved seam of the yoke. The train is long and flowing and the hem is trimmed on the underside with three rows of bobbin lace. The bodice and cuffs are decorated with an applied floral braid of silk and metallic thread, which I think may be a later addition and could be easily removed if desired. Also the inner bodice has been altered in that the side darts have been opened and extra fabric inserted, as can be seen in the photo. There was some damage in the buttonhole band which has been repaired and also at top of the bodice where it adjoins the sleeve but this has been neatly repaired and is not visible when the front panel is in place. There is some staining on the edge of the train at one side . This is a very striking garment of a type seldom seen. Please do not hesitate to contact me by email if you need any more details or photographs. Postage By Special Delivery in the U.K. would be £11, and by Airsure to Europe, £23, and to the U.S., Canada, Australia and Asia, £35. These all include insurance. Ref 6790