Textiles and Stuff 

This is a Vjctorian dress dating from the 1870s. It comes in several parts, first of all the under dress made of a firm cotton with a gathered waist and short sleeves and fastening down the back with linen buttons, the front half of the skirt being made of a ribbed fabric and a section of the same fabric 15 inches deep at the hem at the back. Then separate from this are the bodice, which fastens down the front with hooks and hand sewn eyelets, the skirt, fastening with hooks and eyes and the bustle effect which is fastened with a linen button and buttonhole on a tape. The cotton skirt which is trained, consists of tiers of gathered stiff frills, trimmed with a blue bias cut strip which has been folded to create the deeper shade of blue. The bodice is waisted and has elegant pagoda sleeves, again trimmed in the same manner as the skirt, with a narrower frill, decorated in blue. The detachable panniers or bustle effect is in two parts mounted on a tape and also trimmed with frills and blue folded bias. The dress has been photographed on a size 12 model (US size 8) with a crinoline petticoat, which is not for sale. This model is rather larger in the waist than the dress which is why the bodice does not fasten round the waist and the skirt and panniers are also too small to fasten. As to damage - there are a couple of horizontal slits in the ribbed fabric of the skirt and two darns in the lowest frill of the skirt which are hardly noticeable.. There is some damage to the bodice at the waist at the front, and also some small brown marks on the back of the skirt which can be seen in the photographs. This is a most attractive and unusual dress (though it must have been the laundress’s nightmare!) and the skirt frills fall beautifully. A real collector’s item. This item will be sent fully insured and post free.

This is a beautiful example of a late Victorian two piece day dress, c.1895-1900, in a fine corded cream silk. The bodice is fitted, with softly folded detail at the front, with a fitted back which has a detachable stiffened bow which is anchored with hooks and eyes. The bodice has an inner silk ribbon which fastens inside to pull in the waist. It is boned and fastens down the centre front with hooks and eyes and the right side of the bodice then folds over to fasten on the right. The sleeves are very fully gathered and lined throughout, in a typical “leg of mutton” style so popular at this time, and finish in a narrow cuff. The stand up collar is stiffened and trimmed with narrow double pleated lace as are the cuffs. The skirt falls straight at the front and is closely gathered for a bustle at the back. It is fully lined in cotton sateen and has a long train which is decorated on the underside with a deep ruffle of stiff cotton and lace. The waistband bears the words “R.H. A. Woodman, Robes et Manteaux, Ventnor”. This dress was part of the contents of a trunk containing Victorian clothes, purchased at auction. The bodice and sleeves had been partially unpicked, perhaps with a view to alteration. These have been carefully restored to their original form, and great care has been taken to use natural fabrics for stiffening the bow and finishing the seams. The condition of the fabric is excellent and wearable. There are a few small flaws however that I ought to detail. There is a repair to the underside of one of the sleeves near the cuff and there are also some tiny holes in the back of the bodice which can be seen in the photographs, and one small hole in the train about midway between the waist and the hem. There is very slight staining in the underarm area on the lining but this does not show on the outside. It seems that the dress has been very little worn and there is no damage as such. The hem of the train is clean and not scuffed. The measurements are as follows Bust 32 inches (81 cms) Waist 24 inches (61 cms.) Shoulder 4 inches (10 cms.) Skirt waist to hem at front 40 1/4 inches ( 102 cms.) If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me by email and I will try to answer them. I can supply more photographs on request. Please contact me for postage charges. These will be by "signed for" delivery and include insurance.

This is a wonderful example of an early 19th Century collar in hand embroidered whitework in two tiers. It is very large and extends over the shoulders The design consists of a continuous row of flowers and leaves decorated on both sides with ferns. It has a large scalloped edge which is also finely scalloped and includes a long frond of fern in each curve. The front edge of the collar is finely pointed. The collar measures 15 inches (38 cms.) round the neck edge, 12 1/2 inches (31.7 cms.) down the centre back 17 inches (43 cms.) at the shoulder and the front points measure 13 inches ( 33 cms.) It is in excellent condition and the only fault I can find are two very small holes which can be seen in the fifth photo. This is a beautiful piece, in wonderful condition, and one of the largest I have seen. It would greatly enhance a period outfit, or be suitable for a collection.

This is a most attractive blouse for a young girl in striped cotton. The main part of the blouse is in a very narrow lilac and white stripe. The front panel has been appliqued with a fabric with more pronounced stripes of a darker shade and these alternate with rows of pin tucks. The bodice is asymmetrical and fastens down the left hand side with a placket which conceals three small buttons. There is a small stand up collar which is, unusually, tapered at the front for ease of fitting. The sleeves are gathered fully at the top almost leg-of-mutton in shape, and narrow to buttoned cuffs at the wrist. There is a tape at the back of the bodice on the inside to tie at the front waist to draw the garment in at the back. There is very little damage although the garment is well used, and the only sign of wear is at the edge of the collar, where there is some fraying. The measurements are Bust 36 inches measured flat, front length from shoulder to hem 22 inches. outside length of sleeves, 25 inches. neck 13 3/4 inches The blouse is probably a size UK 10, US 8, Europe 38. This is an unusual design and is very suitable for wearing with a period outfit.

This is a good example of a simple Victorian camisole or underbodice. It is made of cotton with a crocheted yoke, has a silk ribbon threaded round the neck edge and fastens at the front with mother of pearl buttons. It is gathered at the lower hem with a tape which draws up and ties at the front. The sleeves are short and decorated with a crocheted border. The bust size is 36 inches (actual measurement 38 inches) and the length from top of shoulder to hem is 15 inches. The camisole is in good condition and there is plenty of wear in it.

This is a good example of a antique crinoline silk day dress of the mid-1860s. It is lilac in colour and is trimmed on the yoke and cuffs with bobbin lace of a Bedfordshire type. The bodice is fitted, with a narrow stand up collar and is lined in white cotton sateen. The yoke is trimmed with narrow dark lilac velvet ribbon in a folded line next to the lace. A row of decorative fabric buttons have been attached to the centre front. The bodice is not boned. The sleeves are cut in a curved and tapered shape and also lined in cotton. The skirt seems to have been separate and attached in pleats to a waistband which is now missing, but the skirt has been lightly sewn to a modern band for photographic purposes. It is shown worn over a crinoline which is not included in the sale. The skirt is very full and is lined throughout in a stiff cotton fabric and the bottom hem is strengthened with a band of cotton sateen. There is a pocket in the side seam and the position seems to indicate that the skirt fastened at the front but not centrally. The dress is hand sewn. There is very little damage. The stand up collar is a little frayed at the edge and there is an area of weakness in one place in the skirt where there are some small holes. This can be seen in the fourth photograph. There is some staining under the arms and some areas of fading down some panels of the skirt and on the right hand side of the bodice and right sleeve. Some small brown spots can also be seen in the photo of the bodice. However, the general appearance of the dress is good and fine for display, but I would not consider it robust enough for wear. Dresses of this type are difficult to find as many of them were adapted to a a later fashion and re-styled.

This is a pair of corsets in a grey cotton fabric which date from the early 20th Century. They fasten with laces at the back and metal studs and eyelets at the front. There are steel busks at the centre front and the top edge is trimmed with machine made embroidered black and white trimming. They are labelled “Double Value” BIENNA on the inside. The front length is 13 1/2 inches (33 cms.) and the back length 14 1/2 inches (36.7 cms,). They have been worn but are in very good condition.

This is a lovely example of a Victorian bodice for a young girl dating from the 1860s. It is made of fine cream silk and is fitted to the waist, with a low neckline. It is shaped with darts and the upper part is gently padded. It is fully lined in cotton and boned at the front and centre back, which was fastened with lacing with small eyelet holes. The lacing cord is not present. The sleeves are lined and the outer layer is ruched silk to give volume. They are gathered on to a band of darker silk with a frill of silk underneath. The armholes are defined with piping. The bodice is trimmed both at the neck edge and round the sleeves with bobbin lace of a Bedfordshire type. The condition is really excellent - there are no faults in the fabric and no signs of wear, which is most unusual in a garment of such an age.

A rare example of a late 18th Century Calash - a type of bonnet usually made of cotton or silk over a framework of cane or willow to protect the enormous coiffures of the second half of the eighteenth century. These were made to fold flat for convenience. This example is made of light brown glazed cotton on a framework of what appears to be split cane. The crown of the bonnet is gathered on to a circular disc and there is a wide frill at the neck. It is lined with a plain cotton fabric and has narrow tapes to tie under the chin and tapes in channels to draw up the back of the crown at the inside of the neck. This elegant calash is in very good condition considering its age, but there are a few small holes and splits in one area of the frill, which can be seen in the photograph, there is a small hole in the brim and the outer piece of cane is broken at the top of the brim. This is a rare example of a calash and a wonderful addition to a costume collection.

This is an old bonnet in crocheted cotton made in a traditional way with drawstrings to adjust the size and fit. It ties under the chin and has a very pretty back with a large flower filling the whole. It would fit an adult and measures 9 inches deep from crown to brim and 39 inches round the brim. It is an attractive bonnet and a fine addition to a period outfit. It is in excellent condition.

This is a very attractive example of a filler, probably dating from the early nineteenth century. It was worn under the dresses of the time, which had very wide and low necks and was therefore named a tucker or filler. It is made of a fine cotton fabric with a delicate collar, in a dainty type of whitework edged with bobbin lace. The whitework is very finely done, in a design of a lattice with tiny circles alternating with flower sprays and leaves. The back section has a tape at the waist which was tied round the waist at the front and the front sections of the bodice were pinned at the waist to keep it in position. The measurements are as follows the back from the neck edge to hem is 12 inches (30 cms.) and the front from the shoulder to the hem is 14 1/2 inches (36.5 cms.). The shoulder seam measures 7 inches (17.5 cms.). The side seams are finished with a hand stitched hem. The filler is in good condition. There are two very small areas of weakness on the collar, one of which can be seen in the last photo and there are a few small brown marks on the back of the filler and one on the lace on the collar, but these are very small imperfections on what is an exquisite piece of needlework. This is a very flattering filler and would make a great addition to a period costume.

This dress is probably 18th Century and altered in Victorian times, and the bodice has been boned. It would originally have had boning up the front of the bodice but I think the extra boning is a later addition. It is made of a heavy silk brocade which is similar to some of the Spittalfields designs, in a pale gold enhanced with gold coloured metal thread. The design is floral, an overall design of sprays of roses and daisies. The bodice has a low neck with a silk ribbon tie and is fastened at the front with hooks and eyes. The half sleeves have cuffs of spotted net and double caps on the shoulders. The inside waist tie bears the name C Applin & Co., 10 Cork Street, Burlington Gardens. The skirt is of quilted pink silk satin which is lined with a stiff cotton and padded, and at thehem has an inner finely pleated frill of three layers of lace. The quilting is a basic diamond pattern and is machine stitched. There are brocade panniers at each side. There are a few areas of weakness in the brocade especially on the shoulders and also areas of wear at the waist of the skirt and a couple of slits and a small hole in the skirt itself. There are small areas of wear and discolouration under the arms. The silk drawstring at the neck has been replaced, as has the silk binding inside the neck through which it runs, but these could easily be removed if a return to the original is desired. It is an interesting dress for display or for a collection.